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The dinghy should be raised into the davits whenever "Caribbean
Spirit" is underway. This reduces drag and also reduces wear and tear on the dinghy. The davit lines run through clutches
that are mounted on the davits (photo above) that are easily controlled from the rear platform. To lower the dinghy, SLOWLY
raise the lever (on the top of the clutch) until the davit lines starts to slide out. Two people can work together, one on
each davit. If one person is working alone, you can alternate between the davits so the dinghy lowers (relatively) evenly.
When the dinghy is resting in the water, pull some extra slack out of the clutches. This will make it it easier to release
the snap clips that secure the dinghy to the davit lines. Note that the outboard motor handle is in the raised position, protecting
it from being damaged by the rigging.
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If you have left some slack in the davit lines, the snap hooks
should release easily. It's a good idea to clip the snap hooks onto the lifelines when not being used (photo above). Leaving
slack in the davit lines makes it easy to reconnect the snap hooks when you are ready to raise the dinghy back up. When the
dinghy is ready to be raised, clip the snap hooks back onto the bridle (in the dinghy). From the rear platform, feed the line
that comes from the clutches so it is BETWEEN the upper and lower lifelines. Please do not pull up the dinghy with the davit
line running over the upper lifeline. This will cause the vinyl coating to wear off the lifeline. With the clutch levers closed,
the davit lines will only slide through one way (UP). Although the dinghy can be raised by just one person (alternating between
the two davits), the engine side of the dinghy is heavy and two people working together goes much faster.
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The best way to load (and unload) from the dinghy is to bring
it inboard of the port hull and run the painter through the pushpit upright to the stern cleat (photo above). This accomplishes
several things. It gives passengers access to the grab handle that is (only) located "inboard" on the sugarscoop. This method
also positions the dinghy so it is ready to be connected to the davit lines. Although it may seem like the thing to do, you
should not force the bow of the dinghy into the bottom step of the sugarscoop, and unload that way. If you do this the bow
ring (that attaches the painter to the dinghy) will damage the gelcoat. It is also much more awkward and hazardous to exit
the dinghy over the bow.
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Depending on the sea conditions, the dinghy can sometimes
rub and "squeek" when tight in the davits. If you hear this happening, just ease a little line from the davit holding the
bow of the dinghy (photo above). This will stop the noise and help prevent chafing.
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MOORING
When tying up to a mooring you will need to
make use of two docklines. Before you approach the mooring, cleat off one end of each dock line (separately) to the port and
starboard bow cleats. The captain should motor up to the mooring ball and stop the boat so that the crew can pick up the pennant
with the boat hook. Slide the docklines through the eye of the pennant and bring the ends back to the original cleat (port
or starboard) where the dockline is attached. Before securing the docklines, let out enough slack so that the eye of the pennant
is about 15 feet off the CENTER of the bow (photo above).
1) PLAN AHEAD! Note (in the photo) that the docklines run
over the forward beam and under the cable.
2) When close to the mooring ball, the Captain will likely loose site of
it under the trampoline. The deck crew can help the captain with the location of the mooring ball by using hand signals or
voice commands.
3) Captains... when mooring or docking... speed is your enemy!
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ANCHORING:
Your primary anchor is a 45 lb. Delta, equipped with 200' of 3/8' anchor chain. The chain is marked with red paint at 25'
foot intervals. The anchor is raised and lowered by using an electric windlass which only works when the engines are running.
In the anchor locker (photo above-right) there are two buttons (UP-DOWN) that control the windlass. After the Captain has
located the spot to drop the anchor, and has given the command, press the down button and lower away. The Captain will decide
the appropriate scope and give instructions to the "anchor crew" as to how much anchor to release and at what pace. The anchor
crew will advise the Captain as to the status of how much anchor chain has been released.
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USING THE ANCHOR BRIDLE
When setting this anchor you
will be making use of the bridle that is "pre-rigged" under the trampoline. The end of the bridle with the "snap clip" is
stowed in the anchor locker on the anchor cleat (photo above). When you are within 25' of the Captain's desired "scope", the
bridle should be connected to the anchor chain using the snap clip. Then anchor crew should then lower enough chain so that
when the Captain reverses the engine to set the anchor, the anchor rode is being held by the bridle (and not the windlass).
There should be enough chain let out so that the chain between the windless and the snap hook on the bridle is slack.
RETRIEVING
THE ANCHOR
When retrieving the anchor, NEVER pull the boat forward with the windlass. The Captain should motor the boat
over the anchor chain and then the windlass is used. When the end of the bridle (snap clip) re-enters the anchor locker, the
anchor crew will stop the windlass, release the snap clip, and stow the bridle back on the anchor cleat. When this is done
the rest of the anchor rode can be retrieved.
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When the anchor is ready to be stowed, the "anchor crew" should
place the safety on the chain. This will prevent an accidental release. The safety is rigged with a snap clip and small block
and tackle (photo above). Hook the snap clip on the chain and pull the line to tighten the assembly. The line can be released
by releasing the line from the cam shaped "jammer".
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ANCHOR RETRIEVAL TIPS
1) It will be difficult
for the Captain to see in which direction the anchor chain is lying on the ocean bottom. The "anchor crew" can help with this.
If you have an extra hand, position that person kneeling on the trampoline mat. This person can be looking down at the water
between the aft edge of the trampoline mat and the deck. He/she can advise the Captain to the location of the chain and where
to steer the boat. That person can also tell the person on the windlass when the chain is straight down and ready to be hauled
up.
2) As the anchor chain is hauled in, the person operating the windlass will find the chain will form a "pile" in
the storage compartment. That person should occasionaly stop hauling and knock over the "pile" of chain so it doesn't interfere
with the rotation of the windlass.
If you are short handed, don't be concerned. The anchor can still be retrieved with
a one person "anchor crew"... it just takes a little longer.
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